Most black people have corkscrew-shaped hair that forms an afro when it grows long. Because such hair can be difficult to manage, many African Americans thermally or chemically straighten their hair. A straightening perm, also known as a relaxer, is the most popular chemical straightener amongst African Americans. It features sodium, calcium or lithium hydroxide -- chemicals that break the disulfide bonds which give hair its curl. Perms, despite their popularity, can cause breakage, scalp damage and hair loss.
About Black Hair
Natural black hair is tightly coiled into a corkscrew pattern. It tends to be matte, and its curl pattern and lack of natural oils make it susceptible to breakage when manipulated. Contrary to popular belief, black hair grows at the same rate as all other hair. But its tight curl pattern makes it appear shorter than it actually is, and its natural fragility and dryness can frustrate hair growth efforts.
Safe Relaxing
Many black women chemically straighten their hair with relaxers; relaxing is permanent, unlike heat-based straightening. Made from caustic chemicals, relaxers can burn the scalp and overprocess the hair when improperly done. Hence, if possible, only allow a professional hair stylist to relax your hair. If you must do it at home, use a children's relaxer, which is much gentler, and do not leave it in for longer than the recommended period. Afterward, thoroughly wash hair to remove all relaxer residue.
Managing Hair
Relaxers penetrate the hair cuticle as it breaks the disufilde bonds -- a process that weakens and dries hair. According to Cathy Howse, author of "Ultra Black Hair Growth," those with relaxed hair must handle it with care and routinely give it moisture and protein. They should select a moisturizing shampoo that is sulfate-free and deep condition afterward. They should apply a hair moisturizer to their hair everyday and use a protein treatment. Protein strenghtens hair by bonding to the cuticle.
Alternatives
Many alternatives are available to those who don't want to relax their hair. Pressing is the act of oiling hair with pomade and combing it with a hot metal comb. Flat ironing is another straightening method. If the hair becomes wet, however, it reverts to its natural shape. Some black women style their hair in braids, and cornrows, pixie braids and microbraids, some of the most popular styles.
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