A good pair of shears will last many years. A licensed cosmetologist can spend several hundred dollars on a single pair of shears. Since the shears are used for her livelihood, it is important to have a pair that can withstand the daily strenuous use of haircut after haircut. A pair of haircutting shears from your local department store is typically not made with the same high quality steel and construction as a professional pair and may not last as long.
Steel
When choosing shears, look for a pair that is made from a composite of iron and carbon. Chromium is added to keep the steel from corroding. The highest quality and most expensive shears contain molybdenum, which is an extremely hard steel that can withstand the rigorous daily use of haircutting shears.
Handles
There are many handles on the market, including classic, offset, swivel thumb, and crane handles. For the most comfortable hold, look for a shear that has an offset design. In other words, the finger holes are offset from the blades, making gripping easier and more comfortable. Try out the shears in your hand for fit and comfort. Pretend you are cutting hair to ensure that the offset style is comfortable. This design will generally provide some protection from repetitive motion injuries.
Left Hand vs. Right Hand
For maximum comfort and haircutting ease, be sure that you choose the shears that are made for your hand choice, either right-handed or left-handed. Having the wrong pair of shears means that you will cut hair incorrectly and unevenly. Left-handed shears will allow your finger to hold the blade on the top, keeping your thumb in the lower position. Left-handed shears are made to be opposite of right-handed shears.
Shear Edge
There are several basic types of edges available on haircutting shears. A bevel edge is used for cutting dry and oily hair and is generally sharpened at 30-35 degrees. The convex style is used for wet hair as well as slide cutting. Slide cutting is a technique that removes most of the hair while retaining the original cut line. Convex is usually sharpened at a 40-50 degree angle. A semi-convex edge shear is similar to convex, but is sharpened at a 40-45 degree angle. Many professional cosmetologists prefer the convex edge because it provides a smoother and easier cut and works well on all types of hair.
Alignment
Blades need to be curved to cut hair correctly. When purchasing shears, test them by opening and closing them slowly. If they rub, they may be out of alignment. If this is a brand new pair of shears, you do not want to purchase them. Continue testing shears until you find a pair that opens and closes smoothly. If possible, bring a ponytail of real cut hair to use when testing your shears.
Finger Fit
Although shears come in many styles and colors, most of them come in a "one size finger hole fits all." The finger hole may be uncomfortable if your fingers are extremely thin. Shark-Fin shears come with an insertable finger guard that closes the gap between the finger hole and the size of your finger. While providing stability to your grip, these guards provide a comfort that enables you to perform many haircuts during any given day.
Manufacturer
There are numerous manufacturers of haircutting shears. Look for shears that are forged, not cast. Forging increases the balance of the shears and provides proper blade alignment, giving you greater overall cutting control. Be sure the handles are made separately from the blades; they should be welded together and not one continuous piece. The two-piece construction makes alignment of the shears easier and has less risk of breakage. Be sure that your manufacturer provides a warranty and good service after you purchase your shears.
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